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Trip to Peru
Welcome!
When we had arrived in Cusco it was 9:38 in the morning. Upon our arrival, Marcos, a friend of the family who was there to greet us warmly and enthusiastically, bade us his hand in guiding us through our discoveries of Cusco and the sacred valley of the Incas. Marcos drove a 4x4 diesel Mitsubishi, where all five of us: Giuliano, Guillame, Yoandra, Jorge, Pierre and Marcos, were accommodated. Marcos drove us downtown where the differences compared to Lima were remarkable, notably was the hue of such a profound blue that tinted a clear and cloudless sky. Most of the houses are garnished with yellow-earth colored tiles. We had noticed the influences in the construction of many colonial Spanish relics mounted on solid stone infrastructures that are surely Incan. The streets that veined through the heart of Cusco are narrow and are paved with stones. When we had arrived to Eureka, a litte hotel that is situated on Chiwanpata street in the San Blas sector of the city, we had been greeted with a drink called a "mate de coca". This drink is an infusion of mate and coca leaves, its offered as a gesture of cordiality and is also a beverage that aids in soothing discomfort due to high altitude. After an hour of rest, we leisurely ventured about into the downtown area. Our hotel was not far from the "Plaza de Armas" where we had discovered two magnificent colonial styled cathedrals: "la Cathedrale" & " la Compania de Jesus". Unfortunately these cathedrals had been constructed from the destruction of a palace from the Incan civilization.
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This is a diary of our trip to Peru during the summer 2006. It is also our way of sharing our experience with others, a way of showing to the world, through our photos and charts, the beauty of a country whose historical heritage is as impressive as the diversity of its landscapes. This diary covers the first part of our itinerary. We hope that you have the time to read it, and as you go, it may bring to you dreams of traveling around the world and learning more about other civilizations and places.
July 3, 2006
Following the three days of discovering Lima the capital of Peru and reconnecting with our family's heritage, we soon prepared for our flight to the ancient city of the Incan empirempire of the IncasCusco, The plane's departure had been scheduled at 8 am however, upon arriving at the aeroport, we had noticed the flight's delay that would set us back a half an hour on our way. We were flying with Star Peru, a company who strongly ambitions competition with LAN using their 199$ US promotional deal for a return trip from Lima to Cusco in high season. Meanwhile, we took advantage of our extra time to explore the grounds in the Jorge Chavez aeroport. The Building is modern, clean and is fully equipped with large publicity billboards and various shops and boutiques. Guiliano bought himself a Peruvian flag as a souvenir and Guillaume, a comic book called "Condorito" to ease the passing of time. The flight had lasted nearly an hour, offering plenty of time for us to admire the transformation of the vast desert landscapes below, into planes of enormous mountains with their impressive peaks that pierced the clouds. We were also able to observe the routes and villages that appeared from their tucked away and seemingly lost hideaways in an arid terrain of rocks and deep crevices. During the flight, we helped discourage our high altitude induced discomforts with tablets of sorochepill, a universal recommendation.
We had continued to wander the charming little streets. Keeping up with the variously changing and very often narrow slopes that personalized the routes is challenging and all while dodging traffic that obviously humored no cordiality for the passing pedestrians. The sidewalks frequently sliver into tightly narrow spaces that obliged us to breech upon the streets to walk. The locals there are friendly and smiley and many people own little commerces that burst with abundant artisanal crafts that they vivdly encourage us to buy. The storekeepers often call out to us in friendly pet names such as "papito"or "papacho" or "senorcito" in hopes to intice buyers to come and spend on their products. We kept an eye open for restaurants, the time for lunch had been drawing near. The prices for a full meal varied between 1.50$ and 6$ (5 & 20 soles). Finally we had encountered "Mamacha" on Waynapata street, a restaurant that offered a 2$ menu which had included a soup named "sopa a la minuta", a splendid dish with rice, fried potatoes and meat "lomo saltado", the meal was accompanied with a "mate de coca". Excellent!
We continued on to visit another market where Pierre, after bargaining, bought himself an alpaca wool shirt for 30 soles. In Peru, all prices are disputable, bargaining is practicaly a normality when shopping, all this of course depending on the humor of the vendor. Marcos insisted that we return to the hotel for a rest. After a solid 2 hours of repose, hunger guided the search for a place to eat on la Plaza de Armas, our new landmark since that noon. In the "el Emperador", a hearty menu for only 15 soles relieved the search. Choosing a table on the balcony facing the Plaza, we had a spectacular view. Musicians came out into the streets to play a kind music that is typical to the Andes. Pierre took a lot of photos. The food was delicious and so was the wine. Jorge checked out earlier to fetch Marcos from the hotel who offered to guid a nocturnal tour of the city. We trekked up a slope next to the Sacsayhuaman and caught a glimpse of the "Cristo Blanco". From the point where we had stood, the sight of Cusco was breathtaking, we distinguished many of the different churches of the city: "la Merced, "San Francisco", "San Pedro", "Belen", "San Cristobal", "Santa Ana", "El Triunfo". In seraching into the sky, the city's glare was soft enough to lend us a more important perspective into the night's stary heavens. We cut through Cusco to return that got us back to the hotel by 10 pm. Cusco nights are sweet and tremble tranquilly with a touch of chill.
Breakfast that morning was composed of scrambled eggs, a fruit salad and a mate de coca. At 9am Tito and Guiliana, accompanied by Marcos, arrived form the aeroport. Wtih everyone together, Marcos lead us to the ruins of Sacsayhuman, the great adventure commensed. A multiple entry ticket into the ruins for tourists was required. It cost us 70 soles. The entrance itself into the ruins is astounding. In front of a vast stretch of empty space, three enormous rows of giant stones fashioned a zig-zag pattern on three different levels. Each of these rows is assembled by the composition of gigantic carved stone blocks that, without mortar, have been meticulously stacked to perfection with a striking display of skill. A guide accompanied us expressing his knowledge on the field along the tour.
Our guide explained to us that Sacsayhuaman was not a fortress such as the Spanish had believed, but rather a sacred site whose name means "satisfied falcon". She had also expressed how the city of Cusco's original name was "Qosqo" and that its design had been built in the image of a puma, its head being Sacsayhuaman (in the north) and Coriancha (in the middle) was placed at the puma's genital area. She had told us that the rows of stones represented the teeth of the puma, whilst the circular shaped tower at the summit of the hilltop represented it's eye. As we climbed towards the summit, we gradually began to learn more and more about the stones from which Sacsayhuamna had been carved. We had learned a lot about the origins of those stones, their shapes, the theories about the methods that had been taken by those ancient peoples of Peru in sculpting those multi angled stones, their techniques for transportation and their poised and attentive assembly. We were very impressed by the almost unimaginable yet extremely fascinating work that went into the craftsmanship of those colossal sculptures.
Towards the south-eastern direction of the horizon, we had gazed upon the Ausangate crowned cordillera of the Andes that, sitting at 6 373 meters, is the most known peak in all of the Cusco region. We had left Sacsayhuaman to venture forth into the surrounding areas where, with much fortune, we had discovered an esplanade that hosts what had seemed to have been a large circular swimming pool garnished with seats that had been sculpted directly into the stone. Amongst our discoveries, we encountered an obscure and lengthy tunnel that was completely dark and narrow. In order cross through this tunnel we devised the trick to fumble the inner wall with our right hand that guided us along in the right direction. By keeping our left hand well above and in front of us, we were able to tatter along in the darkness; this kept us from bumping our heads on the stalagmite obstacles that hung precariously along the path.
Later on, Marcos lead us to the Incan baths in Tambomachay which is also an archeological site to the water cults. The baths are built with meticulously worked stones at the foot of a mountain. With means of three aqueducts, the bathes are replenished by its underground water source whose exact location is still a mystery. The area is encircled by lolling hilltops that softly offered a tranquil atmosphere to all who visit the baths. An abundant array of artisanal artifacts peppered the rugs that lay about the lane. Unfortunately, their absent merchants kept us only in longing.
After discovering the baths, we proceeded towards Quenqo, "The Labyrinth", an Incan sanctuary that had been carved into a huge circular shaped rock. With it stood an Intiwtanan sculpture whose purpose was to measure time along with many other figures that were most likely used in religious ceremonies. Pierced with many tunnels, the rock provides lengthy sanctuaries for the altars that too were probably also used in religious ceremonies. It's semi-circular amphitheater, adjacent to the rock, holds 19 seats that face towards an enormous amorphously natured block whose shadow, that when cast upon the sanctuary by the light of the day of the southern hemisphere's winter solstice (June 21), takes the form of a puma. Very interesting.
We had left towards another archeological site: Puca Pucara, a compound that finds itself at the summit of a hilltop similar to that of Vigie. The name Puca Pucara, in Quecha signifies: The Red Fortress, whom is named as such because of the pinkish colored stones that make up the build of its towers and terraces. At 2 o'clock, we returned to Cusco, but not before stopping to breakfast in a restaurant that offered us a marvelously panoramic view of the city. Marcos had recommended a soup called "Chairo" that in the end, took claim to be our favorite tasting soup.
July 5th, 2006
That morning was an early start for already at 4:30am, an unexpected breakfast was taken that had been truly appreciated. By 5:20 am Rafael had arrived to escort us to the San Pedro train station, our train departed at 6 am. The departure had been well on schedule. There were many people about the platform and despite the crowd, finding sufficient seating for all of us, had not been a problem. A diesel engine pulled the blue colored old train that brought us to our destination. The tracks are not as nearly as straight to those we were normally accustomed to. The train tottered back and forth rocking us with its uneasy movements that caused it to screech under its own massive weight. It was a chilly morning, likely zero degrees out side. The train must fallow a zig- zag course in order to successfully climb the steep mountain side. Through the window we could see the impoverished districts of the city that the route crossed. The houses are precariously stacked about the hillsides whose access seems to be limited to the long precipitous stair cases that were provided. As we furthered away from Cusco, the terrain changed into cultivated grounds, from whose face we had witnessed the light birth into a glorious morning sun. The terrain is lovely with its many degrees of yellows and browns. We could notice how the school children that walked through the fields in the morning were sparsely dressed; it seems that they must be well accustomed to the dry chilly air. After an hour and a half or so of traveling in a western direction, we were caught by the impressive view of the pyramid of Salcantay, at a height of 6 271 meters, it is the second tallest standing pyramidal shape in the region. Different valleys rolled out one after the other along the way. At 9:45 am, we could begin to observe the transformation of the vegatation as it grew denser and fuller of greens. The train slowed its self to a stop at the 104th kilometer in Ollantaytambo. The voice from the speakers loudly informed us of our location, the "Camino del Inca" or the Incan Trail. It is from this point that the trail that would lead us to Machu Piccu begun. A sign indicates: "Camino Sagrado". We had set off once more for another hour and a half following the sacred "Urubamba" river.
By descending a long staircase that took us to the main square, we ended up on a green compound, a peaceful and serene atmosphere filled the air, and its lawn grazed the contours of the stone build constructions that surrounded it. More towards the north, we came across the sacred rock, a sleek monolith that colonnaded upon a stone pedestal. From its form, a vague likeliness to the venerated puma, the symbol of protection for the Incan people, could be made into guise. The trail that leads towards Huayna Piccu lies behind this monument. There is an obligation to register at the entrance before being able to venture forth onto the trail's 2 hour trek, however there was no obligation required in climbing its little sister hillside found to its right side. Guiliano, Yoandra and Jorge had openly opted for the latter.
Whilst the others decided to stay within the citadel, the following minutes that had brought the rest along the precipitously natured trail of that little hill, lead to a colossally sized structure that had been arranged of rock and stone. It arose from the mountain side of the promontory that inhabits the Putucusi aka "The happy mountain" who faces Machu Piccu and the ravine that plunges directly into the Urubamba river. After a quarter or so of an hour, upon reaching the peak, an awing panoramic view of the entire citadel along with its two terraces on its either side was a sublime award.
The descend is slightly more perilous then its hike. The encompassing beauty however, had distracted us, for we had not soon enough realized the absence of one of our party's members, Guillaume. The group split up into two branches for his search. During this time, we had visited the eastern side where the urban and industrial zones are found. Characterized with the winding and narrow staircases found between its buildings, all in all it pieced together a closely resembling likeliness of a labyrinth. Inspired by the urban landscape, we had once again daydreamed about the kinds of lives that colored the existence of the villagers and workers that gave essence to the those very streets. We had noticed that one of the buildings hosted two bowls carved in stone that had allegedly served as mortars.
We noticed how the dimensions of the rooms became decreasingly less spacious and how the elaborate details of the architecture dwindled as we neared the cliff. The Urubamba river that meandered against the chasm had been also equally equipped with its own terrasses. The most prevalent detail found in this district is the Condor Stone whose beak and frill is sculpted flatly into the rock.
We gathered together while leaving the site and prepared to descend towards "Aguas Calientas" where the adults had enjoyed a refreshing malt beer called "Cuzquena" and the children, an "Inca Kola", a Peruvian soda pop. We were all very tired, but the experience had left us feeling content and happy. Riding in car "E", we had departed from the platfom at 3:55 pm. En route, Pierre and Jorge unsuccessfully attempted to take photographs of one of the most beautiful "nevados", we will just have to keep the memory of its sight in our hearts. The night fell rapidly upon the sky, and for the first time we had observed the "Southern cross" that lay within it. Around 7:30 pm, we had arrived at the Poroy train station where we had disembarked into Rafael's little truck that would take us swiftly to Cusco. By that way, we had saved ourselves over an hour travel by train. In the truck, we had crossed through the sinuous and murky roads the Santa Ana region. Before arriving at the hotel, Rafael had recommended us to the "Sabore del Inca" Restaurant for supper. Once again, we chose "chairo", our favorite soup. That time, it had tasted slightly different; however it was just as yummy. After the meal, we had stopped in an internet cafe to check out e-mails.
THE SACRED VALLEY
Marcos arrived at the hotel at 9:45 am. For that day and the next, we had planned to visit and discover the Sacred Valley of the Incas. We begun by departing towards Pisac, the archeological village found to the north of Cusco. At 10:20 am, we had approached Qorao where the view of the Sacred Valley opened in front of us. The landscape's composition was impressive.
PISAC
Pisac, the archeological site, is composed of many buildings and sections, featuring its cornucopian array of farming terraces and the Pisaqa with its Sun Temple and Intihuatana, a sun calendar sculpted in the rock. We could see that the skillfully polished and cut stones that make up the construction of its walls, are fashioned with amazing Incan artistry and show clever expertise through its precise masonry. From the top of the ruins, we enjoyed a bird's eye view of the far-reaching beauty that encompassed the Valley and the village of Pisac.
Marcos had seemed to be in a hurry because we still had much ground to cover. Before leaving the site downwards towards Pisac, we had bought ourselves a cup of orange juice for .50 soles from a migrant merchant lady. Pisac accommodates an extensively colorful artisanal market with pottery, weaves, sculptures, etc. unfortunately, we had stayed only for approximately a half of an hour before heading west ward in search of a restaurant.
Along the way, we had stopped to visit the house that Marcos is building in Lamay. It is a two storied adobe styled home with an enormous terrain that will be a vegetable garden. By 2:45 pm, we had arrived in Calca to delight in a "Chairo" soup in a restaurant called "Hostal Pitsiray". Delicious!
OLLANTAYTAMBO
It was already too late to visit Chincheros. So we obligingly returned to Cusco automatically landing in a restaurant called "trujillano" where we had tasted a medley of dishes form all over the north of Peru. After dinner, Marcos took us to his home to meet his family and to agreeably join him for a digestive.
TIPON
Benchi, the girl in charge of the hotel's kitchen, prepared a copious meal of scrambled eggs and sausages for us for breakfast. At 8:09 am, we left to go and visit an archeological site by the name of Tipon situated in the south-east area of Cusco. Placed at the opening of a basin, Tipon is basically an ensemble of vast agricultural terraces that have transformed and re-constructed the morphology of the land. They are spaced out categorically from the biggest to the smallest in which we found the main fountain that efficiently delivered the water all through out the terraces.
Nous grimpons sur la colline de gauche pour mieux contempler le paysage qui offre tranquillité et fraîcheur. Au bord du chemin, nous trouvons des fleurs rouges en forme de trompette : des «cantutas», fleurs nationales du Pérou.
After a good long walk, we left that magnificent location to head in a southern direction towards some pre-Incan style ruins. "Pikillacta" which translates to "The city of Lice" is the name of that archeological site.
PIKILLACTA
We continued our journey southwards until we arrived to the village of Andahuaylilllas where we encountered the famous little San Pedro of Andahuaylillas chapel that had been build by the Jesuits in the XVIth century. Due to its remarkably well conserved frescoes, murals that adorn its interior, the little chapel is also called the Sistine chapel of the Americas. The ceiling is painted with geometrical forms and fine gold flowers. Its alter and alter pieces are made of golden sculpted wood that shapes the elegance of its allure that is quite lovely.
We had then set out to visit another little interesting village called Huaro. In Huaro's main square, there is also a little church with frescoe on its walls that depicted religious Christian scenes. On them we could make out fishermen, priests, monks, devils and several types of punishments. Above, there is a Baroque style organ that is presumably from the XVIIth century. This church, like so many others in Peru, has been mounted over an Incan ancestral site.
Leaving the church, we crossed the main square to visit a petit museum that consists of a single room inhabited by many examples of stones dimpled with engraved images of cryptographic symbols. The head mistress of the small museum explained the signification of certain symbols and spoke of the mystery that hemmed the origins of those pieces. In the museum there was also the mummy of a young girl of 14 whose cranium had been deformed since her early childhood.
Around 3:15 pm, we took route. Just before arriving to Chincheros we stopped to adore the three "Nevados" the Chichon (5 530 m). the Sahuisaray (5 720m) and the Pitusiray (5 750m). Chicheros is a charmingly quaint village constructed on the foundations of an ancient Incan Village.
CHINCHEROS
We had noticed the how the walls contrasted against its stone masonry infrastructure. Up we climbed towards the colonial church and the artisanal market place. The village was virtually empty, but on the other side of the main square we pleasantly met a group of children that offered us souvenirs. We were impressed and equally charmed by the effort the ambitious children displayed through their audacity in sales.
The children were quite resourceful who expressed them selves in various languages, they also were familiarized in current events and about the presidents in almost all of the countries. The children went to school during the day and would have to work in the evenings with their parents who knit crafts on the opposite side of the square. In the end, we bought many souvenirs, again not without a bargain, of course. At the end of our walk, Maridol, a little girl of the age of 9 who carried her little 7 month year old brother on her back, came to thank us for visiting their little village.
Between 7:00pm and 8:00 pm, upon the return to Cusco, the Adults decided to go to the "Arte Nativo" theater to watch a dance performance that is typical to that region. We on the other hand, had preferred to stay at the hotel to catch up on some rest. It was roughly at 9:00 pm when we all gathered around the table at "Etapoy" restaurant for what was our last supper in Cusco. We feasted on a dish called "Anticuchos con papas", a large plate of skewered hearts with potatoes. Our return to Lima was scheduled for 9:40 am the next day.